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Dealing with rats under your hot tub can be a nuisance and a potential health hazard. Here are some steps you can take to address the issue:

1. Identify Entry Points:
   • Inspect the area around your hot tub for potential entry points. Rats can squeeze through small openings, so check for gaps or holes in the structure.
2. Seal Entry Points:
   • Once you identify entry points, seal them with materials that rats cannot easily chew through. Steel wool, wire mesh, or expanding foam can be effective.
3. Remove Attractants:
   • Ensure there is no readily available food source around the hot tub area. Secure garbage cans, clean up any spilled food, and avoid leaving pet food outside.
4. Trim Vegetation:
   • Trim back any overgrown vegetation around the hot tub. Rats may use dense vegetation as cover and a pathway to reach the area.
5. Use Traps:
   • Set traps strategically around the hot tub. Snap traps or live traps can be effective. 
6. Consider Natural Deterrents:
   • Some natural repellents, such as peppermint oil or ammonia, may deter rats. Soak cotton balls in these substances and place them near entry points.
7. Professional Help:
   • If the problem persists, consider using Go Green Pest Control  services. We can assess the situation, identify the root cause, and implement effective measures.
8. Maintain the Hot Tub:
   • Regularly clean and maintain your hot tub to remove any potential nesting materials or attractants. Rats may be attracted to warm, sheltered spaces.

Remember, it’s crucial to address the issue promptly, as rats can carry diseases and cause damage to property. If you’re unsure about how to proceed, or if the problem persists despite your efforts, consulting with a pest control professional is advisable.

If you have moles in your lawn and find their presence bothersome, there are several methods you can try to control and reduce their population. Keep in mind that moles primarily feed on insects and earthworms, so addressing the mole issue may also involve managing the insect population in your lawn.  A green lawn is a mole lawn. Here are some methods you can consider, although grub control and traps only work:

1. Castor Oil:
   • Mix castor oil with dish soap and water.
   • Spray the mixture on your lawn. The smell and taste will deter moles.
2. Mole Repellents:
   • There are commercial mole repellents available. These products often contain ingredients that create unpleasant odors or flavors for moles.
3. Grub Control:
   • Since moles feed on insects, reducing the insect population in your lawn may discourage them.
   • Use nematodes to control grubs.
4. Flooding:
   • Moles dislike wet environments. Flooding their tunnels may encourage them to leave.
   • However, this method may not be practical for large lawns and could harm the grass.
5. Traps:
   • Mole traps can be effective, but they require proper placement and careful handling.
6. Natural Predators:
   • Encourage natural predators like owls, snakes, and domestic pets to help control the mole population.
7. Vibrating Stakes:
   • Some products emit vibrations into the ground, simulating larger animals or machinery. This can deter moles but is generally a waste of money.
8. Professional Assistance:
   • If the mole infestation is severe or persistent, consider help from Go Green Pest Control.

The lifecycle of a wasp nest typically follows a seasonal pattern. In Delta and similar regions with temperate climates, wasp nests often start to decline in the late summer and fall. As the days get shorter and temperatures drop, the production of new workers decreases, and the focus shifts to producing new queens and males for the next generation.

By late summer or early fall, the worker wasps are no longer bringing in as much food, and the activity around the nest diminishes. As winter approaches, the colony declines further, and the workers, males, and old queens die off. The newly mated queens seek shelter to hibernate through the winter. By the time winter is in full swing, the wasp colony is effectively “dead” as the workers and males have died, and the queens are in hibernation. The old nest is usually abandoned, and you are less likely to encounter active wasp nests during the winter months.

It’s important to note that the timing can vary depending on the specific species of wasp and local environmental conditions. If you’re dealing with a wasp nest on your property, it’s generally safer to address it in the early spring or late fall when the colony is less active. It’s worth noting that wasp colonies are seasonal, and the lifespan of individual wasps within the colony is relatively short. However, the colony as a whole may persist for a few months, depending on environmental conditions and available food sources.

While corn husks, certain uses originally proposed are not supported by the PMRA because value has not been adequately demonstrated. themselves are not typically used as rat poison, some people may mistakenly believe that they can be harmful to rats and those retails that sell it are modern day snake oil suppliers. However, it’s important to note that relying on corn husks as a rat poison is not an effective method for rodent control.

If you are dealing with a rat infestation, it’s recommended to use  traps that are specifically designed for this purpose. These products are designed to be effective in controlling rodent populations while minimizing risks to humans and pets when used according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Using homemade or improvised methods for rat control can be dangerous and may not be as effective as professionally developed products. If you have concerns about a rat infestation, it’s advisable to consult with Go Green Pest Control professionals for guidance on the most appropriate and safe methods for addressing the issue.

Note: In a controlled lab environment – Mice and rats must feed on the corn husk bait exclusively for a minimum of  14 days, respectively. Both end-use products are to be applied in commercially available bait stations placed 1.2 to 1.8 metres apart, with each bait station containing 56.7–85 grams of bait. An uninterrupted supply must be provided for a minimum of 14 days or until signs of rat and mouse activity ceases for a period of two or more months.  

Bird mites are tiny parasitic arachnids that infest birds, and occasionally, they can bite humans. They are often associated with birds such as pigeons, sparrows, and starlings. These mites can become a problem when they leave bird nests in search of a new host, which can include humans.

Here are some key points about bird mites:

1. Appearance: Bird mites are very small, usually around 1 mm in size, making them barely visible to the naked eye. They are often pale or translucent in color.
2. Bites: Bird mite bites on humans can cause itching, irritation, and sometimes allergic reactions. The bites are often clustered and may resemble mosquito bites.
3. Lifecycle: The life cycle of bird mites typically involves stages such as eggs, larvae, nymphs, and adults. They feed on the blood of birds and can survive for several weeks without a host.
4. Transmission to Humans: Bird mites may infest homes when they leave abandoned bird nests. They can enter houses through windows, doors, or other openings. Once inside, they may bite humans in their search for a blood meal.
5. Control and Prevention: Controlling bird mites involves addressing the bird infestation, as well as treating the affected areas. This may include the use of pesticides and cleaning measures. Preventive measures include bird control, sealing entry points, and maintaining a clean environment.

If you suspect a bird mite infestation, it’s advisable to Go Green Pest Control for proper identification and treatment. Additionally, seeking medical advice for any adverse reactions to bites is recommended.

Bed bug bites are skin reactions resulting from the bites of bed bugs (Cimex lectularius). These insects feed on the blood of humans and animals during the night. Bed bug bites often appear as small, red, itchy welts on the skin. The bites are usually arranged in a cluster or a line and can be found on any part of the body, especially areas that are exposed during sleep.

It’s important to note that not everyone reacts to bed bug bites in the same way, and some people may not show any visible signs of being bitten. The bites themselves are not known to transmit diseases, but they can cause itching and discomfort.

If you suspect you have bed bug bites, it’s advisable to consult with a healthcare professional for proper diagnosis and treatment. Additionally, addressing the presence of bed bugs in your living environment is crucial to prevent further bites. This may involve hiring Go Green Pest Control to eliminate the infestation.

Remember, identifying and treating bed bug infestations early is key to preventing their spread and minimizing the impact on your health and well-being.

Bed bugs are known for their ability to move through small spaces and can easily travel between rooms and different locations. They are often found in cracks and crevices, making it challenging to eliminate them completely without proper treatment.

To minimize the risk of spreading bed bugs, it’s crucial to take swift action if an infestation is suspected. Here are some general tips:

1. Isolate Infested Items: Try to keep infested items contained in one area to prevent the bugs from spreading further.
2. Professional Pest Control: Consult Go Green pest control service to assess the extent of the infestation and determine an effective treatment plan.
3. Thorough Cleaning: Regularly clean and vacuum your living space, paying attention to cracks and crevices where bed bugs may hide.
4. Seal Entry Points: Seal any cracks or gaps in walls, furniture, or other surfaces where bed bugs could potentially hide or travel through.
5. Wash and Dry Bedding: Wash and dry bedding, linens, and clothing at high temperatures to kill any bed bugs or eggs.

Remember, addressing a bed bug infestation promptly and thoroughly is crucial to preventing further spread. If you’re dealing with this issue, consider seeking Go Green Pest Control assistance for effective and targeted treatment.

Silverfish are small, wingless insects known for their silvery, metallic appearance and distinctive wriggling movement. They are often found in damp, dark environments and are attracted to starchy substances. Here’s some information related to silverfish in the specified locations:

1. In Cardboard Boxes: Silverfish are attracted to the glue used in cardboard boxes, as it contains polysaccharides and other substances they feed on. To prevent silverfish in cardboard boxes, consider using plastic storage containers instead. These containers are less appealing to silverfish and provide a more secure barrier.
2. In the Attic: Silverfish thrive in humid environments, making attics a potential habitat. To control silverfish in the attic, it’s important to reduce humidity levels by ensuring proper ventilation and using dehumidifiers if necessary. Additionally, seal any cracks or openings where silverfish could enter, and consider using insecticides or natural repellents.
3. Under Sinks: Silverfish are often found in bathrooms and kitchens, where moisture levels are higher. To address silverfish under sinks, fix any leaks promptly, ensure proper ventilation, and use a dehumidifier if needed. Seal cracks and crevices, and consider using insecticidal dust or traps specifically designed for silverfish.

In general, maintaining a clean and dry environment, reducing clutter, and sealing entry points are effective measures to prevent and control silverfish infestations. Additionally, natural remedies like diatomaceous earth or cedar oil can be used as deterrents. If the infestation is severe, consulting with a pest control professional may be necessary.

Both rats and mice can be considered pests, and their presence can pose health and safety risks. However, the severity of the issue can depend on various factors such as size, behavior, and the specific species involved. Generally, rats are larger than mice and may cause more damage due to their size and strength. They can also carry diseases and contaminate food supplies.

Mice, while smaller, can still carry diseases and cause damage by gnawing on various materials. Both rodents can reproduce rapidly, making it essential to address infestations promptly.

Whether rats or mice are “worse” depends on the context and the specific problems they cause in a given situation. If you’re dealing with an infestation, it’s advisable to consult with Go Green pest control professionals to determine the most effective course of action.

Both rats and mice can be challenging to eliminate once they infest a space, but the difficulty can depend on various factors. Generally, rats might be considered more challenging to get rid of than mice due to their larger size, intelligence, and wariness of new objects in their environment. Rats are often more cautious when it comes to traps and baits.

However, the difficulty in eliminating either rodents depends on the specific circumstances, such as the size of the infestation, the location. It’s essential to use a combination of preventive measures, traps, and, if necessary, contact Go Green pest control services to effectively deal with rat or mouse infestations.

Sure thing! To deter woodpeckers from pecking your house, you can try a few methods:

1. Reflective objects: Hang reflective objects, like old CDs or aluminum foil strips, near the affected area. The movement and reflections can scare away woodpeckers.
2. Visual deterrents: Install scarecrow-like devices or decoys of owls or predatory birds. This might make woodpeckers think there’s a threat nearby.
3. Noise deterrents: Play recorded predator calls or loud noises around the area. Woodpeckers are generally scared off by the sound of potential threats.
4. Protective barriers: Cover the affected area with hardware cloth or bird netting. Ensure it’s not directly against the house, so the woodpeckers can’t reach the surface to peck.
5. Repellents: There are commercial woodpecker repellents available. These often use a combination of taste and odor to deter birds from pecking.

Remember to check local regulations, as some methods may be subject to restrictions.