The number one way to rid your yard of these insect vampires is eliminating standing water, which serves as a breeding ground. Here are some practical steps you can take:
Remove Standing Water: Regularly empty water from birdbaths, old tires, wheelbarrows, and swimming pool covers. Ensure gutters are clean and clear away ivy and decaying leaves, as they can trap water.
Use Fans: An oscillating pedestal fan can significantly reduce mosquito landings. When set on high, it can decrease mosquito presence by 45 to 65 percent for those sitting near it.
Consider Mosquito Traps: Traps that use fans, electric grids, or adhesive pads can capture and kill mosquitoes.
Specific Mosquito Lures: The autocidal gravid ovitrap (AGO trap) is one example of a trap designed to attract and capture female mosquitoes looking to lay eggs. The effectiveness of such traps can vary based on factors like mosquito species, population size, and environmental conditions.
Avoid Chemical Foggers and Misters: These products can pose health risks due to the inhalation of insecticides, which may be linked to endocrine disruption and neurological effects.
Implementing these strategies can help create a more mosquito-free environment, making your yard a more pleasant place to spend time outdoors.
Mosquito season typically starts in the spring and lasts through the summer and early fall, depending on the region and climate. Mosquitoes are most active when temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C) and there is standing water for breeding.
Mosquitoes feed on various sources of nectar and plant juices for sustenance, but female mosquitoes also require a blood meal to develop eggs. They are attracted to carbon dioxide, body heat, and certain chemicals emitted by mammals, including humans. When they bite, they use their specialized mouthparts to pierce the skin and feed on blood.
To prevent mosquito bites, you can take several precautions:
Use insect repellent: Apply insect repellents containing DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon eucalyptus to exposed skin and clothing.
Wear protective clothing: Cover exposed skin by wearing long-sleeved shirts, pants, and socks.
Avoid peak mosquito activity: Mosquitoes are most active during dawn and dusk, so try to stay indoors during these times.
Eliminate standing water: Mosquitoes breed in stagnant water, so regularly empty or treat any containers holding water around your home, such as flower pots, birdbaths, and clogged gutters.
Install screens: Use screens on windows and doors to keep mosquitoes out of your home.
If you’ve been stung by a mosquito, here’s what you can do:
Clean the area: Wash the mosquito bite with soap and water to reduce the risk of infection.
Reduce itching: Apply a cold compress or ice pack to the bite to reduce swelling and itching.
Use anti-itch cream or antihistamines: Over-the-counter hydrocortisone cream or oral antihistamines can help relieve itching and inflammation.
Avoid scratching: Although it may be tempting, scratching mosquito bites can lead to further irritation and increase the risk of infection.
Seek medical attention if necessary: If you experience severe swelling, pain, or signs of infection at the bite site, consult a healthcare professional for further evaluation and treatment.
Signs of fleas in your home or on your pets include:
Scratching: Pets may scratch excessively due to flea bites. If you notice your pet scratching more than usual, especially around the neck, tail, or groin area, it could be a sign of fleas.
Visible Fleas: Adult fleas are small, dark brown insects that move quickly through the fur of your pets. They are about the size of a pinhead, so they can be difficult to spot, especially in dark fur.
Flea Dirt: Flea dirt, which looks like small black specks similar to ground pepper, may be present on your pet’s skin or in their bedding. Flea dirt is actually flea feces and is a sign that fleas are present.
Red or Irritated Skin: Flea bites can cause redness, irritation, and even allergic reactions in pets. Check your pet’s skin for signs of inflammation or small red bumps.
Hair Loss: Severe flea infestations can lead to hair loss in pets, especially if they are constantly scratching and biting at their skin to relieve itching.
Anemia: In severe cases, especially in young or small pets, fleas can cause anemia due to blood loss from multiple flea bites.
If you suspect that your pet has fleas, it’s essential to take action promptly to eliminate the infestation. Here’s what you can do:
Treat Your Pet: Use flea treatment products specifically designed for your pet’s species, size, and weight. This can include spot-on treatments, flea collars, oral medications, or shampoos. Consult your veterinarian for the most appropriate treatment for your pet.
Clean Your Home: Vacuum your home thoroughly, paying special attention to areas where your pet spends time, such as carpets, rugs, furniture, and bedding. Wash your pet’s bedding and any other washable items in hot water to kill fleas and their eggs.
Treat Your Yard: Fleas can also infest outdoor areas where your pet spends time. Treat your yard with flea control products to eliminate fleas in the environment. This may involve using sprays, granules, or foggers specifically formulated for outdoor use.
Prevent Reinfestation: Once you’ve treated your pet and home for fleas, take steps to prevent reinfestation. Continue to use flea prevention products on your pet regularly, keep your home clean, and consider using flea control products year-round, especially in warmer climates where fleas can thrive year-round.
If you’re unsure about how to best treat your pet for fleas or if the infestation seems severe, consult your veterinarian for guidance and assistance. They can recommend the most effective flea treatment products and help you develop a comprehensive flea control plan for your pet and home.
Randy Bilesky BScF CPA RPF President at Go Green 1,210 articles May 7, 2024
Pavement ants, like many other ant species, push up sand and other debris as they excavate their nests underground. This behavior helps them create tunnels and chambers for their colony to live in. Here are a few reasons why they might be pushing up sand: Nest Building: Pavement ants excavate sand and soil to create their nests underground. As the colony grows, they expand their nest, pushing up more sand. Ventilation: Ant colonies require proper ventilation to maintain the air quality within their nests. By pushing up sand, they can create openings to allow fresh air to circulate into their underground chambers. Foraging: Pavement ants might push up sand to access food sources buried beneath the surface or to create pathways to food locations outside the nest. To get rid of pavement ants, you can try the following methods: Professional Pest Control: If you have a severe ant infestation or are unable to control the ants on your own, contact Go Green Pest Control 778-886-4111 gogreenpestcontrol.ca gogreenpestcontrol.ca@gmail.com, as we can assess the situation and provide targeted treatment options to effectively eliminate the ants. Remove Food Sources: Ants are attracted to food sources, so keeping your home clean and free of crumbs and spills can help deter them. Store food in airtight containers and promptly clean up any spills. Seal Entry Points: Seal any cracks or gaps in your home’s foundation, walls, and around windows and doors to prevent ants from entering. This can help reduce the likelihood of new ants finding their way inside. Also, pavement ant colonies can engage in territorial disputes and conflicts with neighboring colonies. When two colonies of pavement ants come into contact with each other, they may exhibit aggressive behaviors such as fighting to defend their territory and resources. These conflicts can occur for several reasons: Resource Competition: Ant colonies require food, water, and nesting sites to survive and thrive. When resources are limited, neighboring colonies may compete for these resources, leading to confrontations. Territoriality: Ant colonies establish and defend territories around their nests. If a neighboring colony encroaches upon their territory, they may respond aggressively to protect their space. Genetic Variation: Ant colonies typically consist of closely related individuals, and colonies with different genetic lineages may view each other as competitors. This can lead to conflicts between colonies with distinct genetic backgrounds. During these confrontations, ants from both colonies may engage in combat, using their mandibles (jaws) and chemical defenses to fend off intruders. These conflicts can be intense and may result in casualties on both sides. Interestingly, some ant species have evolved mechanisms to mitigate conflicts between colonies, such as recognizing and avoiding nest entrances of neighboring colonies. However, pavement ants are known to engage in aggressive interactions with neighboring colonies, especially when resources are scarce or when colonies are expanding their territories. Published by Randy Bilesky President at Go Green Published • 3s 1,210 articles
Carpenter ants have mandibles that are well-adapted for chewing through wood. These mandibles are strong and sharp, allowing them to tear through the fibers of wood with relative ease. Carpenter ants don’t actually eat wood; instead, they excavate it to create nests and tunnels.
The primary reason carpenter ants chew through wood is to create galleries and chambers where they can establish their nests. These nests serve as homes for their colonies, providing protection and a suitable environment for raising their brood. The ants typically prefer moist or decaying wood, as it is easier to chew through and offers better conditions for nesting.
Additionally, carpenter ants may chew through wood to expand their nest as the colony grows or to connect different parts of their nest system. This behavior can sometimes result in structural damage to wooden buildings or furniture if the ants infest these areas in large numbers. If you’re finding sawdust-like material around your home, it could indeed be a sign of carpenter ant activity. When carpenter ants chew through wood to create their galleries and nests, they produce wood shavings or sawdust-like material known as “frass.” This frass typically consists of wood particles, ant body parts, and other debris.
Finding frass near wooden structures or furniture may indicate that carpenter ants are actively tunneling and nesting in the wood. It’s essential to address carpenter ant infestations promptly to prevent further damage to the wooden structures and to eliminate the potential for structural issues.
If you suspect carpenter ants are responsible for the sawdust, it’s a good idea to conduct a thorough inspection of your property to locate the nests and identify any entry points. Go Green Pest Control services can effectively treat carpenter ant infestations.
Promoting biodiversity and supporting pollinators like bees doesn’t have to be limited to just no mowing. Here are some sustainable alternatives and complementary practices:
Promoting biodiversity and supporting pollinators like bees doesn’t have to be limited to just no mowing. Here are some sustainable alternatives and complementary practices:
Wildflower Meadows: Instead of just letting your lawn grow wild for a month, you could sow wildflower seeds or introduce plugs of native wildflowers to create a permanent wildflower meadow. This provides a more stable and diverse habitat for bees and other pollinators throughout the year.
Native Plant Gardens: Replace sections of your lawn with native plants that are attractive to bees and other pollinators. Native plants are adapted to the local climate and soil conditions, making them low-maintenance and beneficial for local wildlife.
Xeriscaping: Consider xeriscaping your yard with drought-tolerant plants. This reduces the need for watering and maintenance while still providing habitat for bees and other insects.
Pollinator Hotels: Build or buy structures like bee hotels or insect hotels to provide nesting sites for solitary bees and other beneficial insects. These can be placed in your yard or garden to supplement natural habitat.
Reduce Pesticide Use: Minimize or eliminate the use of retail pesticides and herbicides in your yard, as these can harm bees and other beneficial insects. Opt for natural pest control methods or tolerate a certain level of pest activity to support the local ecosystem.
Create Habitat Features: Incorporate features like water sources (such as birdbaths or shallow dishes with rocks for perching), log piles, and brush piles to provide additional habitat for insects, including bees.
Community Efforts: Encourage your community or neighborhood to adopt bee-friendly practices, such as creating pollinator-friendly corridors or establishing community gardens with bee-friendly plants.
Educational Outreach: Raise awareness about the importance of pollinators and the role individuals can play in supporting them. Host workshops, distribute educational materials, or participate in local events to promote bee conservation.
By adopting these sustainable alternatives and practices, you can create a bee-friendly environment that extends beyond No Mow May and contributes to the long-term health of pollinator populations.
Babesiosis is indeed a tick-borne disease caused by microscopic parasites of the genus Babesia, which infect red blood cells. The parasites are transmitted through the bite of infected ticks, primarily the black-legged tick (Ixodes scapularis) in the United States. Babesiosis can also be transmitted through blood transfusions from infected donors or from mother to child during pregnancy.
Symptoms of babesiosis can vary widely, ranging from asymptomatic infections to severe and life-threatening illness, particularly in people with weakened immune systems or other underlying health conditions. Common symptoms include fever, chills, sweats, headache, body aches, fatigue, and sometimes anemia and jaundice.
Babesiosis has been reported primarily in certain regions of the United States, particularly in the Northeast and upper Midwest where the black-legged tick is prevalent. However, cases have been increasingly reported in other parts of the country as well.
Prevention of babesiosis involves reducing exposure to ticks, especially in areas where the disease is endemic. This includes avoiding tick habitats such as wooded or grassy areas, using insect repellents containing DEET, picaridin, or oil of lemon eucalyptus, wearing long-sleeved shirts and pants, tucking pants into socks, and performing thorough tick checks after outdoor activities. Additionally, prompt removal of attached ticks can help reduce the risk of disease transmission.
If you live in or visit an area where babesiosis is endemic and experience symptoms consistent with the disease, it’s essential to seek medical attention promptly for diagnosis and treatment. Treatment typically involves a combination of antiparasitic medications, such as atovaquone and azithromycin, or clindamycin and quinine, under the guidance of a healthcare professional.
Insect repellents can indeed be essential in protecting against insect bites and potential diseases they may carry. Here’s a bit more information on the alternative active ingredients
Picaridin: This synthetic compound, also known as KBR 3023, is a common alternative to DEET. It’s effective against mosquitoes, ticks, flies, and other biting insects. Picaridin has been shown to be as effective as DEET in repelling mosquitoes and ticks. It has a lighter scent and is less likely to irritate the skin than DEET, making it a popular choice for those who prefer an alternative.
Oil of Lemon Eucalyptus (OLE): Derived from the leaves of the lemon eucalyptus tree (Corymbia citriodora), OLE is a natural insect repellent. The active ingredient in OLE is p-menthane-3,8-diol (PMD), a compound synthesized from the eucalyptus oil. Studies have shown that OLE can be as effective as low concentrations of DEET in repelling mosquitoes, though it may not offer the same duration of protection as DEET or picaridin.
It’s essential to follow the instructions on the repellent product label carefully, regardless of the active ingredient used. This includes reapplying the repellent as directed and avoiding contact with sensitive areas such as the eyes, mouth, and broken skin. Additionally, some repellents may not be suitable for use on children, so it’s crucial to check the label for age restrictions.
While the term “loaded” might be subjective, some fruits and vegetables tend to have higher pesticide residues than others. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) publishes an annual list called the “Dirty Dozen” that highlights produce with the highest pesticide residues. Here are six commonly featured on such lists:
Strawberries: Strawberries often rank high for pesticide residue due to their delicate nature and susceptibility to pests.
Spinach: Spinach is another leafy green that typically has high pesticide residues, possibly due to its large surface area and vulnerability to pests.
Apples: Apples are often heavily treated with pesticides to prevent pests and diseases, which can lead to residues on the fruit.
Grapes: Grapes, especially when imported, may have high pesticide residues, both on the fruit and in the form of residues on the skin from various treatments.
Bell Peppers: Bell peppers, both green and colored varieties, can contain significant pesticide residues, especially if conventionally grown.
Potatoes: Potatoes are often treated with pesticides throughout their growth cycle to prevent pests and diseases, leading to residues on the skin and sometimes even inside the flesh.
These fruits and vegetables are commonly recommended to be purchased organic if you’re concerned about pesticide exposure, as organic varieties are grown without synthetic pesticides.
The feeding process of a queen ant by worker ants is crucial for the survival and reproduction of the colony. Here’s an overview of how ants feed their queen:
Royal Treatment: From the moment a queen ant establishes her colony, she is tended to by worker ants. Initially, when the colony is small, the queen may rely on stored reserves from her own body fat and the remnants of her wings, which she typically discards after mating.
Feeding Larvae: As the colony grows, the queen’s primary role shifts to egg-laying. Worker ants collect food from their surroundings and bring it back to the nest. This food is then regurgitated or fed directly to the queen to sustain her energy levels and support her reproductive capacity.
Trophallaxis: Ants practice a behavior called trophallaxis, where they exchange food and other fluids through mouth-to-mouth or mouth-to-antenna contact. Worker ants engage in trophallaxis with the queen to provide her with nutrients and maintain her health.
Special Diet: The queen’s diet may differ from that of the worker ants. She may require specific nutrients and proteins to support her egg-laying and reproductive functions. Worker ants prioritize feeding the queen and ensuring her well-being to ensure the survival and growth of the colony.
Egg Production: A well-fed queen is capable of laying thousands or even millions of eggs throughout her lifetime. The worker ants understand the importance of maintaining the queen’s health and fertility to ensure the colony’s survival, so they diligently provide her with the necessary nourishment.
Feedback Mechanisms: The queen’s pheromones and behavior also play a role in signaling her nutritional needs to the worker ants. If the queen is not receiving adequate food or if her health is compromised, the worker ants may increase their foraging efforts or alter their feeding behaviors in response to maintain colony stability.
Overall, the feeding process of a queen ant by worker ants is a highly coordinated and essential aspect of ant colony dynamics. By ensuring the queen’s nutritional needs are met, the worker ants contribute to the colony’s overall success and reproductive potential.
