Randy Bilesky BScF CPA RPF

President at Go Green

June 19, 2025

🐭 Why So Much Poop?

• Mice defecate constantly, up to 50–75 droppings per day per mouse.
• They poop wherever they go—especially along walls, corners, and travel paths.
• A garage provides food remnants, hiding places, and nesting material, encouraging mice to settle and reproduce.
• The more mice, the more droppings—so large amounts of feces usually mean an established infestation.

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🦠 Diseases from Mice Droppings and Urine

Both feces and urine can harbor dangerous pathogens. Here are some known risks:

⚠️ Diseases Carried:

1. Hantavirus – transmitted via inhalation of dust contaminated with droppings or urine.
2. Salmonella – from contamination of surfaces or stored food.
3. Leptospirosis – from direct contact with urine or contaminated water.
4. Lymphocytic choriomeningitis (LCMV) – viral infection from exposure to rodent bodily fluids.
5. Tularemia – rare but possible through contact with infected rodents or their feces.

🧼 Clean carefully: Avoid sweeping or vacuuming dry droppings (it can aerosolize pathogens). Use gloves, mask, and a disinfectant spray before removing any waste.

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🧪 Pheromones in Mouse Urine

• Yes, mice release pheromones in urine, used for:
• The urine scent acts like a “trail marker,” helping other mice navigate and recognize safe routes.
• These pheromones attract more mice, reinforcing infestation patterns.

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🛠️ What You Can Do

1. Seal Entry Points: Mice can squeeze through holes as small as 1/4 inch.
2. Declutter & Clean: Remove nesting sites and food sources.
3. Use Traps or Baits: Snap traps, electronic traps, or professional-grade baits.
4. Consider Ultrasonic Devices: Limited effectiveness but may help in combo with other strategies.
5. Go Green Pest Control Corp. a professional pest control for all and recurring infestations.

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🚫 Cleanup Tips (Safely Handling Droppings & Urine)

1. Wear gloves and an N95 mask.
2. Spray droppings with disinfectant or bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water).
3. Let sit for 5 minutes before removing with paper towels.
4. Dispose of everything in a sealed bag.
5. Disinfect the area again after removal.
6. https://gogreenpestcontrol.ca/mice-in-your-garage/
7. https://insectandrodentexterminators.com/mice-in-your-garage/
8. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/mice-your-garage-randy-bilesky-c9q6c

What’s Going On?

Randy Bilesky BScF CPA RPF

President at Go Green

June 11, 2025

• Carpenter ants don’t eat wood, but they chew through it to build nests.
• A satellite nest is a secondary colony, often built indoors (like in wall voids), while the main nest is outdoors in a tree, stump, or deadwood.
• If you’re hearing chewing, it’s likely a serious infestation — they’re expanding the nest or foraging.

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🚩 Signs of Carpenter Ants in Walls

• Faint rustling or chewing noises, especially at night.
• Frass: piles of sawdust-like material near walls or baseboards.
• Large black ants, especially winged ones (swarmers).
• Soft or hollow-sounding wood.

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🛠️ What You Should Do

1. Locate the Nest

• Try to find entry points: gaps, holes, or areas where frass is appearing.
• Carpenter ants often nest near moisture — leaky pipes, roof leaks, or bathrooms.

2. Treat the Nest

• Dust insecticides like boric acid or diatomaceous earth can work if applied directly.
• Insecticidal foams can penetrate wall voids.
• Use ant baits to feed the colony — they take the poison back to the nest.

3. Call a Professional

• Since it’s a satellite nest in a wall, call Go Green Pest Control experts, highly recommended.
• We help track down both main and satellite nests and ensure total removal.

4. Long-Term Prevention

• Fix moisture problems.
• Seal gaps, vents, and entry points.
• Remove wood piles or tree stumps near your home.
• https://gogreenpestcontrol.ca/noises-in-the-wa…t-satellite-nest
• https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/noises-wall-could-carpenter-ant-satellite-nest-randy-bilesky-ewtrf

Noises in the wall? Could be a carpenter ant satellite nest

Rats can be a frustrating and destructive problem in vegetable gardens. Here’s a comprehensive guide on how to identify, prevent, and control rats in your garden:

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Signs of Rats in Your Garden

• Droppings: Small, dark, pellet-shaped droppings around beds or compost bins.
• Burrows: Holes in the ground, often near garden beds or under sheds.
• Gnaw Marks: On vegetables, wood, or garden tools.
• Nibbled Produce: Partially eaten fruits or vegetables left behind.
• Nocturnal Activity: Rustling or movement at night; rats are most active after dark.

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Why Rats Are Attracted to Gardens

• Food: Ripe fruits, vegetables, seeds, and compost.
• Water: Leaky hoses, birdbaths, or pet water bowls.
• Shelter: Overgrown plants, compost bins, and woodpiles.

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How to Deter Rats from Your Garden

1. Eliminate Food Sources

• Harvest ripe produce promptly.
• Use sealed containers for compost or exclude meat and dairy if using open piles.
• Avoid leaving pet food or bird seed outside.

2. Remove Shelter

• Keep grass and weeds trimmed.
• Elevate compost bins and secure them.
• Store firewood away from garden beds and off the ground.

3. Block Access

• Install fine mesh wire or hardware cloth under raised beds.
• Use row covers or netting to protect plants.
• Seal gaps in sheds, fences, and garden structures.

4. Natural Deterrents

• Peppermint oil: Rats dislike the smell—soak cotton balls and place near entry points.
• Predators: Encourage natural predators like owls, snakes, or cats.
• Motion-activated sprinklers or lights: Can scare rats away.

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Long-Term Solutions

• Raised Beds with Wire Mesh Lining: Prevents burrowing.
• Regular Monitoring: Inspect the garden regularly for signs of activity.
• Secure Compost and Trash: Rats will find any consistent food source.
• https://gogreenpestcontrol.ca/rats-and-your-vegetable-garden/
• https://insectandrodentexterminators.com/rats-and-your-vegetable-garden/
• https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/rats-your-vegetable-garden-randy-bilesky-fgijc

Randy Bilesky BScF CPA RPF

President at Go Green

May 23, 2025

A carpenter ant colony can have multiple satellite nests — often up to 20 or more, depending on the size, age, and species of the colony, as well as the availability of suitable nesting sites.

Here’s how it works:

• Parent (primary) nest: This is where the queen resides and where most of the egg-laying occurs. It usually contains the brood (eggs, larvae, and pupae).
• Satellite nests: These are extensions of the main colony and may house workers, pupae, and mature larvae, but not the queen or eggs. Satellite nests are often located in different areas from the main nest and are used to expand territory and access food sources.

Factors that influence the number of satellite nests:

• Species: Some species, like Camponotus pennsylvanicus (black carpenter ant), are especially prone to forming extensive satellite networks.
• Colony size: Larger colonies are more likely to spread out and establish multiple satellite nests.
• Environmental conditions: Moisture, temperature, and the presence of wood or voids suitable for nesting can increase the number of satellite nests.

If you’re dealing with an infestation, this behavior is important to know because eliminating only one nest won’t eradicate the colony — you need to find and treat both the parent and satellite nests.

https://gogreenpestcontrol.ca/carpenter-ant-co…-satellite-nests

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/carpenter-ant-colony-can-have-multiple-satellite-nests-randy-bilesky-5bdhc

Carpenter ant colony can have multiple satellite nests

Randy Bilesky

President at Go Green

May 12, 2025

Yes, wasps and hornets can seem nasty—especially when they’re buzzing around your food or stinging unprovoked—but there’s more to the story:

Why They Seem Nasty:

1. Aggressive Defenders: Hornets and some wasps (like yellowjackets) are very territorial and will defend their nests aggressively.
2. Multiple Stings: Unlike bees, they can sting multiple times, which makes encounters more painful and memorable.
3. Attracted to Humans: They’re drawn to sweet smells and proteins, which is why they often crash picnics or hover around trash bins.

But They’re Not All Bad:

1. Natural Pest Control: Many wasps eat other insects, including garden pests.
2. Pollination: While not as efficient as bees, some wasps do help pollinate plants.
3. Ecosystem Role: They keep insect populations in check and are food for birds, reptiles, and mammals.

So while their behavior can definitely feel aggressive, it usually comes down to defense or food-seeking, not malice.

Getting stung by a wasp or hornet can be painful and sometimes serious, depending on your body’s reaction. Here’s what typically happens:

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🐝 Immediate Effects:

1. Pain & Burning Sensation: Almost instantly, you’ll feel a sharp pain and burning at the sting site.
2. Redness & Swelling: The area becomes red, swollen, and may develop a welt or bump.
3. Itching: After the initial pain fades, itching often kicks in.

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🧬 Why This Happens:

Wasps and hornets inject venom that contains toxins and enzymes. These cause:

• Pain by irritating nerve endings
• Inflammation by triggering your immune system
• Allergic reactions in some people

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⚠️ More Severe Reactions:

1. Large Local Reaction: Swelling can spread significantly, especially on arms or legs, but it’s not usually dangerous.
2. Allergic Reaction (Anaphylaxis) – This is serious and can include:

🚨 If these occur, it’s a medical emergency.

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✅ What to Do If You’re Stung:

• Wash the area with soap and water.
• Apply ice to reduce swelling.
• Take antihistamines for itching or swelling.
• Use pain relievers like ibuprofen if needed.

If you’re stung multiple times or react badly, get medical help.

 

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/wasps-hornets-so-nasty-randy-bilesky-cfimc

Randy Bilesky BScF CPA RPF

President at Go Green

May 2, 2025

Wasp and hornet stings can be a real nuisance, especially during the warmer months when these insects are more active. Here’s a quick guide on what you should know about wasps, hornets, and how to handle their stings:

1. Key Differences Between Wasps and Hornets:

• Wasps: Generally smaller and more slender with bright yellow and black coloring. They tend to be more aggressive, especially if their nest is threatened.
• Hornets: Larger, more robust, and typically darker in color (often black with white or yellow markings). They are a type of wasp but are more aggressive and can defend their nests more aggressively.

2. Why Wasps and Hornets Sting:

• Defense: Wasps and hornets are protective of their nests, and they sting when they feel threatened.
• Seasonal Behavior: In late summer and fall, the nest’s colony size peaks, and the wasps become more irritable, especially as food sources decrease. This is when stings are more common.

3. Symptoms of a Sting:

• Pain: Sharp, immediate pain that usually lasts a few minutes.
• Swelling and Redness: The area around the sting can become swollen and red.
• Itching: After the pain subsides, itching may occur.
• Increased Risk for Allergies: If you’re allergic to wasp or hornet venom, stings can lead to more serious reactions, such as difficulty breathing, swelling in areas away from the sting site, dizziness, or even anaphylaxis (a severe allergic reaction).

4. What to Do If Stung:

• Stay Calm: Don’t panic, as this could provoke more aggression from other wasps or hornets nearby.
• Remove the Stinger: If you’re stung by a wasp (not a hornet, since hornets don’t leave their stinger behind), you can use a flat edge (like a credit card) to scrape the stinger off.
• Clean the Area: Wash the sting site with soap and water to avoid infection.
• Ice or Cold Compress: Apply ice to the sting site to reduce swelling and numb the pain.
• Over-the-Counter Treatments: Hydrocortisone creams, antihistamines, or pain relievers can help with swelling and pain.

5. Allergic Reactions to Watch Out For:

• Mild Reactions: Redness, swelling, and itching at the site.
• Severe Reactions: Trouble breathing, swelling of the lips, throat, or face, dizziness, or a rapid pulse. If this happens, seek medical help immediately. Carrying an epinephrine auto-injector (EpiPen) is recommended for people with known allergies to stings.

6. Preventing Stings:

• Avoid Nesting Areas: Keep away from areas where wasps or hornets nest. These are often found in eaves, attics, tree branches, and sheds.
• Wear Protective Clothing: When gardening or doing outdoor work, wear long sleeves, pants, and gloves to minimize exposed skin.
• Stay Calm Around Wasps and Hornets: Avoid swatting at them, as this can provoke them. Instead, calmly walk away from the area.
• Seal Trash and Food: Wasps are attracted to food sources, so keep food covered when eating outdoors and seal trash tightly.

7. Dealing with Nests:

• If you discover a nest on your property, it’s best not to try to remove it yourself, especially if it’s large. You can call a pest control professional who will handle the nest safely.
• Some people use DIY methods, like hanging a decoy wasp nest to deter other wasps, as they tend to be territorial.

8. Natural Remedies for Sting Relief:

• Baking Soda: A paste of baking soda and water can help neutralize the acidity of the sting.
• Vinegar: A vinegar compress can help reduce pain and swelling.
• Honey: A small amount of honey can soothe the sting area, and its antimicrobial properties can reduce the risk of infection.
• https://gogreenpestcontrol.ca/wasp-season-agai…wasp-and-hornets/
• https://insectandrodentexterminators.com/wasp-season-again-what-you-need-to-know-about-wasp-and-hornets/
• https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/wasp-season-again-what-you-need-know-hornets-randy-bilesky-fddyc

Randy Bilesky BScF CPA RPF 

President at Go Green

April 14, 2025

Organic pest control can be a great alternative to synthetic chemicals, but there are several reasons why it doesn’t always work as effectively as people might hope. Let’s break it down:

1. Limited Efficacy in Certain Situations

• Targeting Specific Pests: Many organic methods are less broad-spectrum than synthetic chemicals, meaning they may only target specific pests and not all potential threats. For instance, some natural pesticides might kill a particular type of insect, but leave others unaffected, which can lead to imbalances in the ecosystem.
• Lower Potency: Organic pesticides (like neem oil, diatomaceous earth, or insecticidal soaps) can be less potent than their synthetic counterparts. This can make them less effective in heavy infestations, requiring multiple applications or more time to see results.

2. Resistance Over Time

• Just like chemical pesticides, pests can develop resistance to organic solutions. For example, certain insects may evolve to tolerate natural insecticides, which is a common problem in the pest control world.

3. Application Timing

• Organic methods often require precise timing to be effective. If the pests are too established or the treatment is applied too late or inconsistently, it may not work well. Pesticides like neem oil, for instance, need to be applied when pests are in a vulnerable stage (like larvae) and not once they’re fully grown and well-established.

4. Environmental Factors

• Weather plays a significant role in the effectiveness of organic pest control. Rain can wash away natural sprays, and high winds can spread them unpredictably, reducing their impact. Extreme temperatures can also affect the efficacy of organic treatments, making them less reliable in certain climates.

5. Complexity of Ecosystems

• Organic pest control methods often focus on specific pests, but ecosystems are incredibly complex. For example, introducing natural predators (like ladybugs or predatory beetles) to control aphids can work, but it can also upset the balance if those predators begin feeding on beneficial insects, such as pollinators.

6. Labor-Intensive and Slow-Acting

• Organic pest control methods tend to be more labor-intensive. You might have to manually remove pests, introduce beneficial organisms, or apply natural remedies frequently. This requires more time and effort compared to using chemical pesticides that are easier to apply and often faster-acting.

7. Perceived Ineffectiveness

• Sometimes, organic pest control doesn’t seem to “work” because people expect quick results, and it can take longer for organic methods to show noticeable effects. If someone is impatient, they might give up before seeing the full benefits.

8. Product Variability

• Not all organic products are created equal. Some may be diluted or improperly formulated, reducing their effectiveness. Quality control can vary, and not every natural pesticide will perform well in every situation.

Why Still Use Organic Methods?

Despite these challenges, organic pest control has benefits, like being more environmentally friendly, less toxic to beneficial organisms (like bees), and safer for humans and pets. It’s just important to understand that it often works better as part of an integrated pest management (IPM) strategy rather than a sole solution.

In many cases, a combination of organic methods, preventative measures, and sometimes even synthetic solutions (when absolutely necessary) works best to keep pests at bay.

https://gogreenpestcontrol.ca/organic-pest-con…but-does-it-work

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/organic-pest-control-does-work-randy-bilesky-3jvuc

Organic Pest Control but Does it Work?

Randy Bilesky BScF CPA RPF 

President at Go Green

April 8, 2025

Carpenter ants typically excavate wood at a slow to moderate pace. The actual rate of excavation can vary depending on several factors, including the size of the colony, the type of wood, and the environmental conditions. In general:

• Small to medium colonies: These might remove a small amount of wood over several weeks or months, depending on the size of the nest and how much wood is available.
• Larger colonies: Larger colonies can excavate wood more quickly, but it still tends to be a gradual process. In some cases, a large colony could remove up to a few cubic inches of wood over a few months.

However, carpenter ants don’t consume the wood they excavate. Instead, they create galleries and tunnels by scraping the wood into small bits, which they then push out of their nests. This process results in piles of fine wood debris or “sawdust” near the nesting site.

So while they can excavate wood over time, it’s generally a slow process. Significant damage typically occurs over several years if left unchecked, especially in the case of larger or older infestations.

: https://gogreenpestcontrol.ca/how-fast-do-carp…hrough-your-home/

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/how-fast-do-carpenter-ants-excavate-through-your-home-randy-bilesky-jwcgc

How fast do carpenter ants excavate through your home?

Wasp season typically starts in late spring to early summer and lasts through the fall, with peak activity occurring from mid-summer to early autumn. Here’s a breakdown:

1. When does wasp season start and end?

• Start: Wasps usually become more active in late spring or early summer (around May or June). This is when the queen starts building a nest and laying eggs.
• Peak season: July to August is when most wasps are active, as nests are at their largest.
• End: Activity typically wanes in late autumn (October) when the cold sets in, and most of the colony dies off, except for new queens that will hibernate over the winter.

2. How many wasps are there?

• The number of wasps varies by species, but in general, a mature colony can have anywhere from several hundred to a few thousand workers, depending on the species and the size of the nest.
• At the peak of the season, you could have a large number of wasps in a single nest.

3. How long does the wasp season last?

• Wasp season lasts several months, typically from late spring to late fall. However, the most noticeable and active period is in the summer months.

4. Colony Life Cycle:

• In early spring, only the queen survives from the previous year’s colony, and she starts a new nest.
• As the nest grows, workers emerge, and the colony becomes busier. In late summer and fall, the queen will produce new queens and male wasps, which will leave to mate. These new queens are the only ones to survive the winter.

So, overall, wasp season runs from about May through October, with peak activity in the hotter months of summer. Does that help clarify the timeline?

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/wasp-season-here-randy-bilesky-t3jzc

Wasp Season Is Here

Wasp Season Is Here

Fleas in your house can be a common problem, especially if you have pets, but they can also come in from outside environments, like your yard or even when you’ve visited other homes. Here’s why they might be in your house and what you can do to get rid of them:

Why There Are Fleas:

1. Pets: Fleas often hitch a ride on pets like cats or dogs. If your pet goes outside or interacts with other animals, fleas can jump onto them and come inside.
2. Outside Environment: Fleas can also live in your yard, especially if there are animals like squirrels or stray pets in the area.
3. Previous Infestation: If fleas have been present before, they can leave eggs and larvae in carpets, bedding, or upholstery. Those can hatch later on.
4. Human Passengers: Fleas can also attach themselves to your clothing or shoes and be carried inside.

What You Can Do:

1. Treat Your Pets: Use flea treatments such as topical medications, flea collars, or oral medications. You can consult a vet for the most effective and safe treatment.
2. Vacuum Regularly: Flea eggs and larvae often hide in carpets and upholstery. Vacuuming frequently and thoroughly can help remove them. Make sure to dispose of the vacuum bag or empty the canister into an outside trash can.
3. Wash Bedding: Wash your pet’s bedding, your own bedding, and any soft furnishings like throw pillows or blankets in hot water to kill any fleas or eggs.
4. Use Flea Sprays or Powders: There are several sprays and powders available for treating your home. Look for products that target adult fleas, eggs, and larvae. Make sure to follow the instructions carefully and leave the house ventilated afterward.
5. Professional Pest Control: If the infestation is severe, call Go Green Pest Control – a professional pest control service to treat your home.
6. Flea Traps: You can also use flea traps, which attract fleas with light and then trap them, helping to reduce the population.

Note: Fleas can be persistent, so it might take several treatments and efforts to fully get rid of them..

https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/fleas-my-house-what-can-done-randy-bilesky-ejcvc

https://gogreenpestcontrol.ca/fleas-in-my-hous…what-can-be-done

Fleas in my house and what can be done