Fleas on your cat and dog, and in your carpets and on the floor, can be a frustrating issue to deal with. Fleas are tiny, parasitic insects that feed on the blood of animals (and humans, occasionally). Here’s an overview of where they likely came from and how to get rid of them effectively:
Where Did the Fleas Come From?
Outdoor Exposure: Fleas usually come from the environment, often from other pets or wild animals. If your pets have been outside, they could have picked up fleas from other animals, like stray cats, dogs, squirrels, or even raccoons.
Other Pets or Visitors: Fleas can also be transmitted by other pets that visit your home. If any of your neighbors or friends have pets with fleas, they could have entered your home unnoticed.
Infested Furniture or Carpets: Fleas can sometimes hitch a ride into your home on secondhand furniture or even through your shoes if you’ve been in flea-infested areas. Once they’re in your home, they reproduce quickly.
Flea Eggs and Larvae: Fleas lay eggs on your pets, which then fall off into your home (carpets, bedding, furniture, floors). These eggs hatch into larvae, and the cycle continues.
How to Get Rid of Fleas
Treat Your Pets:
Clean Your Home:
Wash Bedding and Fabrics:
Treat the Home with Flea Spray or Powder:
Insect Growth Regulators (IGRs):
Flea Traps:
Repeat Treatment:
Prevent Future Fleas
Flea Prevention: After you’ve eradicated the current infestation, make sure your pets are on a regular flea prevention plan (monthly treatments). Keep your home clean, and try to limit your pet’s exposure to flea-infested environments.
Outdoor Control: If you have a yard, consider treating outdoor areas where fleas may be living, such as shady spots or areas where wildlife might frequent.
It may take some time, but with persistence and the right treatments, you can get rid of the fleas and prevent them from coming back.
Sow bugs a.k.a woodlice or wood bugs are indeed harmless to humans and don’t pose a threat to the structure of your home. They are more closely related to crustaceans like crabs and lobsters than to insects.
They do have a hard, segmented exoskeleton that gives them that “armadillo-like” appearance, but unlike pill bugs (which are another type of woodlice), they can’t roll into a ball for protection.
Pill bugs, on the other hand, are often mistaken for sow bugs, but they differ because they can curl up into a ball when threatened, similar to a pill bug’s defense mechanism.
These little critters are scavengers, feeding on decaying plant material, which makes them useful in breaking down organic matter. If you find them in your home, it’s usually an indication of excess moisture or humidity, as they thrive in damp environments. However, they generally do not cause damage and are not a cause for concern.
Sow bugs and pill bugs are often confused because they look similar, but they belong to different families within the order Isopoda and have some distinct characteristics. Here’s a breakdown of the key differences between them:
1. Ability to Roll Up:
Pill Bugs: These are the ones that can roll up into a ball when threatened, much like a tiny armadillo. This behavior is a defense mechanism to protect themselves from predators. This rolling ability is the most notable difference between the two.
Sow Bugs: Sow bugs cannot roll up. They have a more rigid, flat body structure that makes it impossible for them to curl into a ball.
2. Body Shape and Structure:
Pill Bugs: Typically, pill bugs are more rounded or oval in shape. Their body segments are curved, and they have a more “compact” appearance when compared to sow bugs.
Sow Bugs: Sow bugs have a flatter, more elongated body. They also have visible side plates along their bodies, giving them a slightly more flattened look.
3. Tail Structure:
Pill Bugs: The tail of a pill bug (called a “uropod”) is typically rounded and tucked underneath its body.
Sow Bugs: Sow bugs have a more prominent, pointy tail that protrudes slightly from the back of their body. This is often one of the easiest ways to tell them apart.
4. Habitat and Behavior:
Both pill bugs and sow bugs are typically found in damp, dark environments such as under logs, rocks, or leaf litter. They are both detritivores, meaning they feed on decaying organic matter like leaves and wood.
Key Takeaway:
The main difference between a sow bug and a pill bug is that pill bugs can roll into a ball, while sow bugs cannot. They also differ slightly in body shape and tail structure.
Both are harmless creatures, commonly found in moist areas around your yard or home, and neither pose any threat to people or property.
A dirty kitchen can definitely attract cockroaches. Cockroaches are scavengers, and they are opportunistic feeders that will seek out food and water sources in any environment that provides those essentials. A kitchen that is not regularly cleaned or maintained can become an ideal habitat for cockroaches for several reasons:
1. Food Sources:
Crumbs, spills, and food scraps: Cockroaches are particularly attracted to leftover food. If crumbs, grease, or food scraps are left on counters, floors, or in sinks, it can become a food source for cockroaches.
Dirty dishes: Piles of dirty dishes in the sink can provide a constant food source, especially if food residue is left on plates, pots, or utensils.
Garbage: Overflowing trash cans or improperly sealed garbage bins provide easy access to food waste, which is very attractive to cockroaches.
2. Water Sources:
Moisture: Cockroaches need water to survive, and kitchens tend to have plenty of moisture sources. Leaky pipes, dripping faucets, and even wet sponges or dishcloths can attract them.
Standing water: Cockroaches are drawn to any standing water, such as water pools around sinks, drains, or refrigerators.
3. Shelter and Hiding Places:
Cracks and crevices: Cockroaches prefer dark, hidden areas to nest and hide. Dirty kitchens often have cracks, gaps, and crevices in walls, cabinets, or around appliances where cockroaches can take shelter during the day.
Clutter: Piles of paper, cardboard boxes, or other clutter in a kitchen can also provide ideal hiding spots for cockroaches.
4. Heat:
Warmth: Kitchens tend to be warmer than other areas of the home due to cooking appliances, making them attractive to cockroaches. Warm environments are ideal for cockroach reproduction.
5. Attractive Smells:
Rotting food: A dirty kitchen with decaying food or organic waste produces odors that can draw cockroaches in from nearby areas.
How to Prevent Cockroaches in the Kitchen:
To avoid attracting cockroaches, it’s important to keep your kitchen clean and free from food and moisture sources that might tempt them. Here are some tips:
Clean regularly: Wipe down counters, sweep floors, and clean up food spills immediately. Don’t leave dirty dishes in the sink for long.
Take out the trash: Empty trash cans regularly, and make sure they have tightly sealed lids.
Fix leaks: Repair any leaky pipes or faucets to remove moisture sources.
Seal cracks: Close off any cracks or gaps in walls, around windows, or near doors where cockroaches could enter.
Store food properly: Keep food in airtight containers and store pantry items off the floor.
Regularly clean appliances: Make sure areas like under the refrigerator, stove, and microwave are kept clean and free of food particles.
In summary, a dirty kitchen provides plenty of food, water, and hiding places for cockroaches, making it a prime environment for them to thrive. Regular cleaning and maintenance are key to preventing infestations.
Mice and rats typically don’t get along very well. They can be quite territorial, and while they might not necessarily “eat” each other under normal circumstances, they may fight, especially if resources like food or shelter are scarce. Here are a few key points about their interactions:
Territorial Behavior: Both mice and rats can be territorial, particularly when it comes to nesting sites and food sources. If they encounter each other in confined spaces, such as in a house or a warehouse, they may fight to establish dominance.
Size Difference: Rats are generally larger and stronger than mice, so if a conflict occurs, a rat may overpower a mouse. However, a mouse might try to avoid the rat, as it’s typically not a match in terms of size and strength.
Social Structure: Mice tend to live in larger, more social colonies, whereas rats can be more solitary, depending on the species. This difference in social structure may affect how they interact with each other.
Fighting: If forced into close proximity, rats and mice may engage in physical conflict, and a rat might overpower a mouse, especially if it’s young or injured. It’s not typical for them to “hunt” each other, but aggression can result in injury or worse.
Coexistence in the Wild: In nature, rats and mice can often be found living in the same environments, but they tend to occupy different niches or areas, so direct interactions might be limited. In urban settings, however, their paths may cross more frequently.
Cannibalism in Mice:
Starvation or Lack of Food: If food is scarce, a mouse might resort to eating a fellow mouse, particularly if it is weak, injured, or dead. Mice are opportunistic feeders, so they will take advantage of available resources, even if that includes other mice.
Injured or Weak Mice: If a mouse is injured or sick, other mice might target it, especially if the group is under stress or food is limited. This could be a survival mechanism.
Mother Eating Babies: Female mice, especially if stressed or lacking food, may sometimes eat their own young, a behavior called filial cannibalism. This can occur if the mother perceives the pups as weak or if there’s a lack of food or space.
Cannibalism in Rats:
Scarcity of Food: Rats are more likely to engage in cannibalism than mice, particularly in situations where food and resources are scarce. A hungry rat may eat a weaker, sick, or injured rat to survive.
Injured or Weak Rats: Similar to mice, if a rat is injured, sick, or weak, others in the colony might attack and eat it, especially in competitive or overcrowded conditions.
Aggression: In some cases, rats may dispatch and eat another rat simply out of aggression, especially in competitive or stressful environments. For instance, dominant rats may dispatch subordinates or fight over territory, and it may be eaten.
Newborn Pups: Female rats might eat their own young if they feel stressed, if the litter is too large, or if the pups are weak or deformed. This is a form of maternal cannibalism.
Other Factors:
Overcrowding: In situations where there is overcrowding and limited resources (food, space, or shelter), both rats and mice may become more aggressive, and cannibalism could become more common as a result of competition and stress.
Instinct and Survival: Cannibalism can sometimes be driven by the instinct to remove a sick or weak member from the group in order to prevent the spread of disease or reduce the risk to the group’s survival.
In summary, while mice and rats don’t generally “eat” each other, they can fight, and rats have the upper hand due to their size and strength. If they do fight, the rat could potentially dispatch the mouse, but this is more about territory and survival than predation.
Moles can be a common nuisance in yards, but they actually play an important role in the ecosystem.
Why are Moles in Your Yard?
Moles are typically in your yard because they are searching for food. They live underground and tunnel through the soil in search of invertebrates like earthworms, grubs, and other insects. Yards with rich, moist soil and a plentiful food supply are more likely to attract moles.
Why Do Moles Push Up Soil?
The “mounds” or “push-ups” you see in your yard are created by moles as they dig tunnels underground. Moles create these mounds when they burrow just below the surface of the soil. As they dig, they push the displaced soil up to the surface. The tunnels are used for hunting food and for nesting. The raised mounds are often most noticeable in lawns, gardens, and other soft, well-drained soil areas.
What Are Moles Eating?
Moles primarily eat insects and other small invertebrates that live in the soil. Their diet consists mainly of:
Earthworms
Grubs (larvae of beetles, for example)
Insects like ants and beetles
Other soil-dwelling organisms
Moles can consume more than their body weight in food every day, and they spend most of their time hunting for food.
How Many Moles Are in an Area?
Moles are territorial animals, and their population density depends on the availability of food and suitable habitat. Typically, a single mole’s territory may range from 1/4 to 2 acres, depending on the richness of the food supply. On average, there could be 1–3 moles in an acre of land. However, these numbers can vary widely.
When Do Moles Breed?
Moles breed in the spring and early summer. Mating usually occurs from February to May, and female moles typically give birth to 3–5 babies after a gestation period of about 45 days. The young moles are born blind and without fur, and they begin to leave the nest in about 30 days.
How Can You Stop Moles?
If you want to stop moles in your yard, there are a few different methods you can try:
1. Repellents
There are various mole repellents available that claim to deter moles by using natural ingredients, such as castor oil or garlic. These products are applied to the soil or near active tunnels, and they make the area unpleasant for moles, often encouraging them to leave.
2. Traps
Trapping is one of the most effective ways to remove moles. You can use either “harpoon-style” traps or “scissor-type” traps. These are placed in the active tunnels, and when a mole runs through, the trap triggers and captures it.
3. Physical Barriers
Installing a physical barrier like mesh wire or hardware cloth underground around gardens or lawns can deter moles from digging in those areas. The barrier should be buried 12–24 inches deep to prevent moles from digging beneath it.
4. Vibration or Ultrasonic Devices
Some people use vibration devices or ultrasonic repellent devices that emit sounds or vibrations that moles are said to find irritating. The effectiveness of these devices is debated, and results may vary.
5. Habitat Modification
Reducing the food supply for moles can sometimes help. For example, eliminating grubs or other insects from your lawn or garden (through natural or chemical means) may make the area less attractive to moles. However, this approach can be costly and may not completely stop moles from seeking other food sources.
6. Professional Control
If you have a significant mole problem that isn’t responding to other methods, it may be worthwhile to contact Go Green Pest Control, pest control professionals. They can set up specialized traps or use other means to manage the mole population in your yard.
Things to Keep in Mind:
Moles aren’t inherently destructive; they don’t eat plants (they only tunnel), but their tunneling can damage lawns, gardens, and landscapes. This is often the main concern for homeowners.
Eliminating moles entirely can be difficult because they are elusive and quick to move on if the food supply is depleted. It may require ongoing management.
If you’re dealing with moles primarily because of their tunneling, trapping and repelling them are likely your best bets. However, if the issue persists or is especially problematic, Go Green Pest Control can offer more targeted solutions.
Pest control refers to the practice of managing or eliminating unwanted organisms, commonly referred to as pests, that can cause damage to property, crops, food, or health. Pests can include insects, rodents, other animals, fungi and bacteria. Effective pest control is essential for maintaining hygiene, preventing diseases, and protecting resources.
Here’s a breakdown of the types of pest control and methods used:
1. Types of Pests:
Insects: Ants, cockroaches, termites, mosquitoes, bedbugs, fleas, flies, and moths.
Rodents: Rats, mice, squirrels.
Birds: Pigeons, seagulls, and sparrows that might invade buildings or crops.
Weeds and plants: Often referred to as pests in agricultural settings.
2. Methods of Pest Control:
a) Chemical Control:
Pesticides: These are chemicals designed to destry or repel pests. They can be broad-spectrum (affecting many types of pests) or selective (targeting specific pests). Examples include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides.
Advantages: Fast-acting and effective, especially for large-scale infestations.
Disadvantages: Potential harm to the environment, non-target organisms, and human health if not used correctly. Overuse can also lead to pest resistance.
b) Biological Control:
Natural Predators: Using organisms that naturally prey on or parasitize pests, such as ladybugs eating aphids, or releasing parasitoid wasps to control caterpillar pests.
Pathogens: Introducing bacteria, viruses, or fungi that infect pests, like the use of Bacillus thuringiensis to target caterpillar larvae.
Advantages: Environmentally friendly and sustainable, as it targets only specific pests and doesn’t cause harm to other species.
Disadvantages: Can be slow-acting and may require careful management.
c) Mechanical and Physical Control:
Traps: These can include rat traps, sticky fly traps, or pheromone traps designed to lure pests into a contained space.
Barriers: Physical barriers such as nets, screens, and fencing can prevent pests from entering areas.
Exclusion: Sealing cracks, crevices, or other entry points in homes or structures to prevent pests from getting inside.
Advantages: Non-toxic and can be effective in certain situations.
Disadvantages: Requires regular monitoring and maintenance.
d) Cultural Control:
Sanitation: Removing waste, food scraps, and breeding sites to eliminate pest habitats.
Crop Rotation: In agriculture, rotating crops can disrupt pest life cycles, preventing the build-up of pests in soil.
Planting Resistant Varieties: Choosing pest-resistant crops or plant species to reduce pest infestations.
Advantages: Preventative and eco-friendly approach.
Disadvantages: Often requires ongoing effort and planning.
e) Integrated Pest Management (IPM):
Combination of Methods: IPM uses a combination of the above methods based on monitoring pest populations and making decisions on the best control approach. It emphasizes minimizing harm to the environment, non-target species, and humans.
Steps in IPM: Monitoring: Identifying the pest and understanding its life cycle and behavior. Prevention: Taking measures to reduce the likelihood of pest infestations. Control: Using a combination of methods like physical traps, biological control, and targeted chemical treatments.
Advantages: Sustainable and effective long-term.
Disadvantages: Requires knowledge and monitoring over time.
3. Common Pests and Their Control:
Mice and Rats: Can be controlled with traps, poison baits, or rodent-proofing techniques (sealing entry points).
Bedbugs: Control often involves a combination of heat treatments, pesticides, and rigorous cleaning practices.
Termites: These wood-destroying insects require specialized treatment, often involving baiting systems or liquid treatments that target colonies.
4. Precautions in Pest Control:
Safety: Pesticides can be harmful if not handled properly. Always follow label instructions and use protective gear when applying chemicals.
Environmental Impact: Overuse or improper disposal of chemicals can harm ecosystems. It’s important to use targeted treatments and non-toxic options when possible.
Health: Some pests, like mosquitoes, are carriers of diseases (e.g., malaria, dengue fever), while others like rodents can spread bacteria (e.g., salmonella, hantavirus).
5. Pest Control for Homes:
Homes: Pest control focuses on preventing infestations of common pests like ants, rodents, cockroaches, and bedbugs. Often, homeowners will hire professionals or use DIY treatments.
6. Pest Control Professionals:
If a pest infestation becomes too difficult to manage alone, many people hire professional pest control companies like Go Green Pest Control. We have the knowledge, equipment, and access to more powerful pest control products to handle severe infestations.
Effective pest control is all about identifying the right approach for the type of pest and the environment, as well as balancing efficiency, cost, and environmental safety.
Carpenter ants survive in your walls during the winter because they find warmth, food, moisture, and shelter inside your home. While they may become less active during colder months, they remain protected from the freezing outdoor temperatures and continue to sustain their colony. To manage an infestation, it’s important to address both the ant presence inside the walls and any moisture issues or structural damage that may be attracting them. Carpenter ants are resilient and adaptable creatures, capable of surviving in a variety of conditions, including colder temperatures like 4°C. Here are a few reasons why carpenter ants might remain in your walls even when it’s chilly outside:
1. Indoor Warmth
Insulation from the Environment: Even though it’s cold outside, your home provides a much warmer environment. Carpenter ants are likely seeking warmth inside your walls, where the temperature is usually higher than outside. Homes are often insulated, and areas like walls, attics, and basements can provide stable temperatures that are more favorable for their survival, even in the winter.
2. Access to Food
Search for Food Sources: Carpenter ants are scavengers that feed on protein, sugars, and other organic matter. During winter, food sources like crumbs, spilled food, or sugary substances inside your home become a tempting target. Carpenter ants can survive without needing to be outdoors as long as there is a food supply available inside.
3. Nesting Sites in Warm Areas
Safe Nesting Locations: Carpenter ants typically nest in wood (hence the name “carpenter”) and will establish colonies in decaying or damp wood, often hidden behind walls or inside insulation. These locations provide a secure environment for the queen to lay eggs and for the colony to grow. The warmth inside the walls can be crucial for the survival of the eggs, larvae, and workers, especially in winter.
4. Colony Survival Strategies
Winter Dormancy and Reduced Activity: Carpenter ants don’t truly hibernate, but their activity levels can drop in colder months. They may slow down, becoming less active during winter, which can make them harder to detect. However, their colony often remains alive and functional because the queen and workers stay in a somewhat dormant state in the warmest, most protected areas inside the structure. The queen may continue to lay eggs, and the workers will still forage occasionally.
5. Temperature Tolerance
Cold-Resistant Ants: Carpenter ants have some natural cold tolerance, but they do need warmth to survive the winter. If the temperature inside the wall is warmer than the external environment, they can remain active and functional, though much less so than in warmer months. This makes them adaptable to varying temperatures, allowing them to survive in places where other insects might not.
6. Moisture Retention in the Walls
Moisture in Wood: Carpenter ants are attracted to moist or decaying wood, which can be more common in areas like basements, attics, or behind walls where leaks or condensation may occur. The moisture provides a more hospitable environment for the ants, especially when the temperature outside drops. Carpenter ants often nest in rotting or water-damaged wood, which retains heat and moisture, creating a microhabitat that helps the colony survive through the colder months.
Rats, mice, and ants are all resourceful, resilient, and prolific pests that can infest homes or businesses, cause damage, and pose health risks. Their ability to reproduce quickly, infiltrate spaces, and resist control methods makes them difficult to manage, requiring targeted and often persistent pest control efforts.
1. Infestation Potential
All three species are highly capable of infiltrating buildings and living spaces. Rats and mice can squeeze through small openings, and ants can find cracks and crevices to enter in search of food and water.
2. Reproduction Rates
Rats, mice, and ants reproduce quickly. A single pair of rats or mice can lead to a large infestation in a short period of time. Ant colonies can grow exponentially, with queens laying thousands of eggs. This rapid reproduction makes them difficult to control once they establish a presence.
3. Damage to Property and Structures
Rats and mice chew through wires, insulation, and even wood, potentially causing structural damage or fire hazards. Ants can damage wooden structures and buildings by establishing nests in the wood, though this is less common than their other types of damage. All three can damage food supplies and leave droppings that contaminate surfaces and food.
4. Health Risks
These pests are often associated with health risks. Rats and mice carry diseases (such as leptospirosis, salmonella, and hantavirus) and can contaminate food or water with their urine and feces. Ants can also spread bacteria and contaminate food, particularly sugar ants or carpenter ants, which may also lead to structural damage.
5. Food Attraction
Rats, mice, and ants are opportunistic feeders that are attracted to easily accessible food sources. This is why kitchens, pantries, and trash areas often attract these pests. They can be especially problematic in places where food is stored improperly or trash is not sealed well.
6. Persistence
These pests are notoriously persistent. Rats and mice can find shelter in hidden places within walls or attics, while ants often find multiple entry points and return to the same area. Once established, they are difficult to eliminate without ongoing control measures.
7. Social Structure (In Some Species)
Mice and rats tend to be social creatures, living in groups and forming colonies. Similarly, ants are highly social insects that live in colonies, with structured roles such as workers, soldiers, and queens. This social behavior can lead to large-scale infestations.
8. Resistance to Control Methods
All three pests can sometimes develop resistance to control methods over time. For example, mice and rats may become wary of traps or bait if they experience negative consequences, while ants may relocate their nests or avoid certain chemicals.
Finding mouse droppings in your living room can be concerning. Here are some steps you can take to address the issue and prevent future problems:
Immediate Actions:
Clean Up: Cleaning Supplies:
Protective Gear:
Cleaning Solutions:
Cleaning Steps:
Preparation:
Pick Up Droppings:
Clean Surfaces:
Disinfect the Area:
Investigate and Identify Entry Points:
Check for Signs of Infestation: Look for nests, urine stains, or gnaw marks.
Seal Entry Points: Inspect your home for any gaps, cracks, or holes where mice might enter. Seal these with caulk, steel wool, or other appropriate materials.
Preventative Measures:
Store Food Properly: Keep food in sealed containers and promptly clean up crumbs and spills.
Reduce Clutter: Mice thrive in cluttered areas, so try to keep your living space tidy and organized.
Regularly Inspect: Make it a habit to check for signs of mice and maintain cleanliness in your home.
If the Problem Persists:
Set Traps: Consider using snap traps or humane traps to catch any mice. Place them along walls and in areas where you’ve noticed activity.
Call Professionals: If you’re unable to manage the situation or if you suspect a larger infestation, consider contacting Go Green Pest Control.
Taking these steps can help you manage the situation effectively and prevent future issues.
Carpet moths are commonly attracted to warm environments where they can find food sources. They typically thrive in dark, undisturbed areas, such as under furniture, in closets, and along edges of carpets. Regular cleaning and maintenance can help prevent infestations.
Habitat and Lifestyle
Where They Live: Carpet moths prefer places with a steady temperature and humidity, such as attics, basements, and areas with little traffic.
Larvae Diet: The larvae feed on natural fibers found in wool, silk, cotton, and even stored food items, like grains. They can also eat organic debris like hair and skin flakes.
Getting Rid of Carpet Moths
Cleaning: Vacuum carpets, rugs, and upholstered furniture thoroughly. Make sure to get into corners and under furniture. Dispose of the vacuum bag or empty the canister outside.
Washing: Wash infested clothing and linens in hot water (at least 130°F or 54°C) to kill larvae and eggs.
Storage: Store out-of-season clothing in airtight containers. Use mothballs or cedar chips in storage to deter moths.
Professional Help: If the infestation is severe, it might be wise to consult Go Green Pest Control, a pest control professional.
The life cycle of carpet moths: consists of four main stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Here’s a breakdown:
Egg: Female carpet moths lay tiny, white or yellowish eggs, often in hidden areas like carpets, upholstery, or storage bins. Each female can lay up to 300 eggs.
Larva: After about 10 days, the eggs hatch into larvae. This is the most destructive stage, as larvae feed on natural fibers like wool, silk, and fur. They can live for several months, depending on environmental conditions, before they pupate.
Pupa: Once they are fully grown, the larvae spin silken cocoons and enter the pupal stage. This can last from a few weeks to several months, again depending on temperature and humidity.
Adult: Adult moths emerge from the pupal stage, ready to mate. They do not feed; their primary goal is reproduction. The cycle can start again soon after they mate.
The entire cycle can take anywhere from a few weeks to several months, depending on environmental conditions. Regular cleaning and monitoring can help break this cycle and control infestations.
